From fast fashion to circular textiles: What Ireland’s new Roadmap means for business

From linear to circular

Textiles remain one of the most resource-intensive and environmentally damaging value chains with high volumes of water, energy, chemicals and synthetic materials used to produce garments that are often only worn a couple of times.

Ireland is a significant consumer of textiles for a relatively small country. We have one of the highest per capita consumption rates of textile products in the EU, consuming 53kg per person per year. In 2019, 292,000 tonnes of textiles were imported to Ireland of which 65% were clothing and footwear. While there are a number of options for returning textiles such as charity shop donations, textile bring banks and online reselling, in Ireland the majority of our textile waste ends up in mixed municipal waste.

This Roadmap recognises that the current take-make-waste model is unsustainable and sets out how Ireland will move towards a circular economy, where products are designed, used and reused with minimal waste. This is outlined in a number of strategic actions which present both challenges and opportunities for the textile industry in Ireland.

Extended Producer Responsibility

One of the most significant actions in the Roadmap is the commitment to develop and implement an Extended Producer Responsibility scheme for the textile industry.

For businesses placing textiles on the Irish market, an EPR Scheme represents a fundamental shift in responsibility. Under an EPR model, responsibility does not end at the point of sale. Instead, those placing textiles on the market will be required to fund the collection, sorting, reuse and recycling of those products at end of life.

In practice this will introduce a new layer of cost and compliance. Businesses are likely to face reporting obligations on the volume and type of textiles they place on the market, alongside financial contributions linked to those volumes. While the details are still to be finalised, these costs are unlikely to be insignificant.

High-volume, low-margin models may be particularly exposed, especially where products are less durable or harder to recycle. More broadly, EPR creates a direct link between product design and cost, meaning producers will need to consider not just how products are made and sold, but how they are managed at end of life.

The role of retailers

It is not just producers who will be impacted by the changing policy landscape. An emphasis on eco-design, particularly through the EU’s Eco-Design for Sustainable Products Regulation, will put increased scrutiny on retailers' product ranges. Business models will need to shift from a focus on volume and speed towards durability and longer lifecycles. As the Government explores options for increased textile collection, sorting and reuse, retailers may also find themselves playing a key role in take-back schemes.

The impact on the charity sector

For the charity sector, the Roadmap presents challenges and opportunities. The emphasis on re-use and extending the life cycle of textiles puts charity shops in a strong position as they already play a significant role in the circular economy. However, the new policy is not without risks for the sector. As part of an EPR Scheme, the Government commits to examining the needs and supports required for the development of textile collection, sorting and reuse infrastructure. It will be important that the significant role charities already play in textile collection and reuse is fully recognised. If new systems are designed without meaningful input from the sector, this could result in disrupted supply for charity shops, impacting a key fundraising strategy.

Why engage now?

This Roadmap is the first step in focused textile policy development from the Government, setting out a framework for next steps. While the direction of travel is set, industry still has the opportunity to work collaboratively with key stakeholders to shape the details of policy, including the EPR Scheme.

Businesses and organisations that engage now have a real opportunity to shape how this policy develops highlighting risks, identifying opportunities, and helping to ensure that measures are proportionate and workable in practice. By working together, industry and Government can ensure that policy is developed in a way that protects and enhances the circular economy without placing an unmanageable burden on the textiles sector.

Grace Donnellan, Account Manager